I’ve been climbing well, doing lots of pitches and keeping my fitness up. I’ve been running and doing light weight training on my rest days. I’ve been eating pretty simply, living out of a cooler and a two burner stove limits my ability to have great meals. I’ve been focusing on a high protein, medium carb, and very low fat diet. My weight has maintained at about 135 pounds, but I feel great, am not hungry, and have been recovering very well. I eat either two egg whites with vegetables or a low-fat cereal, no fat milk, and no fat yogurt for breakfast. Builders bars, fruit, and some bread during the day, and meat with veggies and pasta for dinner. I’ll post a final tick list at the end of my trip, about two weeks from now. It’s heating up here in the Red, the weather is getting hot and humid, but I’m going to continue to keep my endurance and fitness up for the next leg of my journey. Crush on!
There are so many factors involved in trying to send. Fitness, temperature, your mental state, the psych, and gravity. I’ve been at the Red River Gorge now for two weeks after living in Naples, Florida for the past 4 months. In Naples I trained on a beast maker at most an hour a day, 4 to 5 days a week and worked as a Server at a busy restaurant from 5pm to 2am most nights. Despite this huge change of pace, yesterday, my fourth day on, I sent a 5.13a called Spank at the Drive By crag. I worked very hard to accomplish this. I only attempted the route two tries a day and did “fitness training” on the days I wasn’t trying to send it. On my fitness days I’d primarily go to the Motherlode or Dark Side (1 time) and tried to climb continuously and get as pumped as I could. This method paid off, as I wasn’t that pumped when I finally sent.
On my last go I found a great hold I had been missing the other 7 burns. Since the route was so steep when I fell I’d stop in space and didn’t feel boinking was necessary because I was so close to sending. NOT TRUE! You never know, but if I had known about this jug I may have sent much sooner. So always take it to the chains, climb when you’re pumped (you do things differently when you’re pumped), and be precise with your beta.
I plan on staying in the Red at least two more weeks and I’m excited to try and send my first 5.13c. Through careful planning and intelligent climbing strategy I hope to achieve this goal. At first I was taking creatine and protein powder, but I have discontinued the use. The reason being is: I gained weight. As in previous posts, gaining weight is not good for sending. I currently am 138 at night, and I’d like to get down to at most 133 at night, putting me at about 130 during the day. I’ve continued to do one arm pull ups almost every day and abs a few times a week. It’s important to stay well balanced and healthy so you can have maximum performance and try and avoid injury. Wish me luck, more to come.
So, I got lucky, and the beast maker training paid off. My first pitch in the red, I flashed a 5.12a called “Sluts are cool” at the Beer Trailer crag. It was a great day climbing with my friends Matt Riley and Brendan Williams from Uconn. The temps were prefect, there was no one else at the crag and we had a great day, even though we only climbed for a few hours. I managed to also send Morning Wood, 5.12a my second go, after failing on the onsight. It is awesome to be here in the Red, and I can’t wait for the next month, and even this rest day to be over so I can get back on the rock. I’m considering starting a video blog, so I get in the habit of uploading pictures and videos to make this more interesting. More to come, this is just the beginning!
My apologies for the long hiatus. I’ve been stuck in Naples, Florida, long story there. But now, I am living out of my tent at the beautifl Red River Gorge. I haven’t climbed on real rock in about 5 months! Longest ever since I’ve started rock climbing nine years ago. Now, after unloading my homemade trailer into a storage unit, I will finally get to rock climb, TODAY! I am going to try and get some pictures and videos posted, so stay tuned. As well as some nutrition advice as well. I’ve been training diligently on the BEASTMAKER, but have no idea how I will perform this trip. I would like to get back to climbing 5.13′s but we will see. I’m currently 135 pounds, and I’d like to get down to 130 pounds through exercise and diet. More on this as well. So cheers to all, happy sending. My latest and best life advice, do what makes you happy and always be true to yourself and loved ones.
A couple of weeks ago I was at the RED, as mentioned in my previous post. It was my best climbing trip ever, and I’m very excited to have completed so many 4 and 5 star classics. My goal was to do 10 new 5.12′s, and I only got 8, but I’m okay with that, I climb for fun. I managed to onsight three 5.12a’s, and second try I did both Cell Block Six (5.12c), and Jesus Wept (5.12d), both 5 star classics. I also did 3 new 5.12b’s, two of them second try. The thing I love about the Red is always being able to do new routes! After climbing so many years at Rumney, it’s such a treat to try and onsight a straight forward climb!
Here is my Sent List:
Immaculate Deception 5.12a Onsight
Kick Me in the Jimmy 5.12a Onsight
Primus Noctum 5.12a Onsight
Rocket Dog 5.12b 2nd try
Iniquity 5.12b 2nd try
Whipper Snapper 5.12b 3rd try
Cell Block Six 5.12c 2nd try
Jesus Wept 5.12d 2nd try
The Red is awesome!
I just got back from a week long trip to the Red! Despite going to the Red about 10 times, this is my first trip in the Fall. MAN! I’ve been missing out! If you’ve never been to the Red in October, or on 60 degree days, GO! Last summer I went, it was 90 out every day, the rock was always wet, it was very humid, and I still had a great time. In October, it’s AMAZING! You stick to every hold, rarely have to chalk, and the fall foliage is in full effect. We had a great trip, my girlfriend Maya, and our friends Alan and Julie and I rented a cabin with a hot tub and climbed two on one off for the whole trip. Everyone had great sends, great spirit, and an overall awesome trip! I couldn’t have asked it to be any different.
The crags were packed, but it was okay. There are so many routes at every wall there is always something to get on. No mishaps on our part, although I did witness an foreign lady get pulled up to the first bolt, hit the climber, spin around, and slam her head on the wall at the Motherlode. Luckily there seemed to be no major damage, just a little blood. Things do happen, and you always must be careful, climbing, belaying, and even just walking around where ever you may be. I don’t have much time to write now, but I’ll post my tick list soon. Cheers!
Life has finally slowed down to almost normal person rate. Driving 3.5 hours to Rumney for the past 3 weekends in a row took its toll. The rain stopped us this weekend. We are two weeks away from a week long RED RIVER GORGE TRIP, with our wonderful friends Alan, Julie, and their son Will! We are super excited and can’t wait to get down there. The present issue is preparing. If you are not from the Northeast, let me tell you, it is not easy getting prepared to handle the Red PUMP! Our gyms aren’t that big or steep, and there isn’t much pumpy climbing around here. Rumney is actually very bouldery and power-endurance based, and the RED is pure pump. The expression “biggest jugs I’ve ever fallen off” is true. Obviously not all routes are that way, but many are.
Therefore, my plan of attack is to up climb and down climb routes in the gym with weight. Once I send a route, I then add 2.5 pounds, and continue adding weight until I fail. Currently I max out at 17.5 pounds, after this weight I feel I am risking injury. I am very careful when I climb, and I do not crimp. The objective is to climb open hand, with good technique, and get as pumped as possible. Luckily I sent my fall project, so now I can train without thinking: I should really be doing power-endurance training for Charlie Don’t Surf. It’s nice to have your mind at ease from the tension of being wrapped around a “project”.
In the Red I intend to climb as many 5.12′s as possible. I have gone on trips trying to project, and for me it is no longer worth it. Would I rather obsess about one climb, or try to onsight everything possible. To be honest, my personal goal is to try and climb 10 new 5.12′s. My last trip I sent 8, so I figure why not go for 10? I always try my hardest and give it my all, by no means am I going “take it easy”. If you know me, or know anyone who knows me, I don’t know how to take it easy, ask them. Also, i’ve seen projects on trips make a lot of tension in the group, so by just trying to onsight and do things quick allows for flexibility.
Nutrition, okay, next post, I promise, I’ll write about nutrition. Here’s a tip, its better to eat a meal, digest for an hour, then start pounding beers!
As lately, I’m still very busy. Here is a quick update. Two days ago I sent my harderst sport climb yet! Charlie Don’t Surf, 5.13b!!!! FINALLY 8a! This climb is a bouldery, power-endurance five bolt no rest amazing RUMNEY climb at the right end of Waimea! It took me eleven tries total, I fell off the clipping JUG my third try of the day prior, then sent first try of the following day! I have much to elaborate on this, the process I went through to get here, and my plans for the future, but, DAY TWO…
TODAY: I finished my application to become a Dietitian!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I think I would need to write a book to explain this, but in short, this day encompasses four years of PURE DEDICATION, FOCUS, and COMMITMENT! Now, I must wait until NOVEMBER 4th when a computer program spits out a “MATCH” or
“NON-MATCH” to see if I will be granted a Dietiian Internship, the last leg of my journey to become a Dietitian! For now, I celebrate with Lobster, steamers, crab cakes, shrimp, white wine, and my beloved girlfriend Maya!
This post is inspired by Adrienne and motivated by Bill from Prime Climb. Adrienne asked me if there is a difference between eating saturated fat and unsaturated fat, if one is better for you then the other. The answer is… YES! Before I start, I want to be clear in saying that too much fat, regardless of the kind, is bad for you. Fat is fat. Saturated fat, primarily from animal meat is more difficult for you body to break down. Saturated fats turn into Low Density Lipoproteins (LDL’s) and can cause an increase in damage to your cells as they get “stuck” to other fat or area’s of damage in your body. Unsaturated fat, that is rich in omega 3′s and omega 6′s can increase your bodies ability to make High Density Lipoproteins (HDL’s). HDL’s grab ahold of “bad fats” and help remove them from your blood. By using fats rich in omega 3′s and omega 6′s (olive oil) instead of saturated fats (butter) over time may help decrease the risk of cardiac problems. A good tip to get in the habit of it is reading the labels on things, trying not to consume more than one serving size at a time. This will help you not inadvertently consume too much fat. Although you may not see it on your body, too much fat on the regular basis can lead to problems later on down the line, such as heart attack or stroke.
Long time no post! My apologies. I’ve been working really hard this summer trying to make ends meet, and my climbing slowed down with the New England heat! However, to my surprise I just had a great climbing weekend, actually my best day ever! To be honest, I feel the grades may be soft, but I checked 8a.nu and I used the consensus. My friend, Greg Wrobel and I, gunned it up 6 hours to Maine, and climbed at Shagg Saturday morning with Michael Penn. Shagg is awesome, it is very juggy, straight forward, overhanging, well bolted, and awesome. On Saturday I sent:
12a Shaggin Waggin, technically 2nd try (I fell on the 1st move then sent immediately after)
12d Meltdown, 2nd try
12c Ginsing Route, FLASH
That is my best single day ever, especially being at a wall I’ve never been to before. Props to Pat, Grady, and Rus who were out there giving beta and pointing me to these excellent routes!!!
Sunday morning, despite the no rain forecast, it rained for three hours straight. After running up the 30 minute approach to get Greg’s draws down we decided everything was clearly soaked. Rumney, happens to be on our way home so we made the 2.5 hour trip to Waimea! I almost sent Suburban Surfer 13a after a brief warmup at Bonsai. I also got on Charlie Don’t Surf (13b). It is awesome, I did all the moves but one, and know it will go. The psych is high, I’m in better shape then I thought, and I’m headed back up to Rumney for the rest of the week! Wish me luck, more to come!