Rock Climbing Nutrition

Rumney is awesome! After climbing at the red, pulling straight down on the jugs the whole time, you really learn to appreciate the complexity of Rumney. Rumney is the birth place of micro beta, where the smallest adjustment can make the impossible, possible.
My first day back at Rumney I had a great day. After my warm up I did Kundalini 5.12d first try after not trying it in a couple years. I then sent Shock wave 5.12b/c second try, onsighted Pulse 5.11d/12a, and repeated orangahang.
My second weekend a lot of things were wet, as Rumney often is in the spring. I got on Dyno-saur (5.13a) for my first time. One of the main resting jugs, before the 12 move crux was wet, however it was still climbable. I managed to one hang it my second try, and my third try as well. The second day it was too wet an unclimbable. I did manage to do Flying Monkeys, 5.12c, an awesome overhung jug hall! It was wet, I had put a rag in the wet hold to try and soak up the water, but when I got back up there 30 minutes later the rag was dripping! Indespite, I figured with a safe fall, why not try? So, I up’ed the gnar and went for it, and managed to send!
This weekend I will be headed back for the attempt to send Dyno-saur and what ever else I come across. Dyno-saur could be wet still so I am going go with the flow and just see what happens! So that is the brief wrap up to now, oh… So, I did my hardest gym route ever. Prime climb graded it 5.12b, but I think it is much harder. It is so funny how some gyms sand bag, prime climb is the worst I’ve experienced. This 5.12b took me about 15 tries, I think it’s at least 13a, and my gut says 13b. I’m interested to compare it to how many tries it takes me to do a real 5.13a outside. I feel stronger than ever and I’ve been more consistent then ever lately in life and climbing. So wish me luck, and happy sending to you too!