Rock Climbing Nutrition

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Rock Climbing Nutrition

The recent and thoughts on week trips

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Life has finally slowed down to almost normal person rate. Driving 3.5 hours to Rumney for the past 3 weekends in a row took its toll. The rain stopped us this weekend. We are two weeks away from a week long RED RIVER GORGE TRIP, with our wonderful friends Alan, Julie, and their son Will! We are super excited and can’t wait to get down there. The present issue is preparing. If you are not from the Northeast, let me tell you, it is not easy getting prepared to handle the Red PUMP! Our gyms aren’t that big or steep, and there isn’t much pumpy climbing around here. Rumney is actually very bouldery and power-endurance based, and the RED is pure pump. The expression “biggest jugs I’ve ever fallen off” is true. Obviously not all routes are that way, but many are.
Therefore, my plan of attack is to up climb and down climb routes in the gym with weight. Once I send a route, I then add 2.5 pounds, and continue adding weight until I fail. Currently I max out at 17.5 pounds, after this weight I feel I am risking injury. I am very careful when I climb, and I do not crimp. The objective is to climb open hand, with good technique, and get as pumped as possible. Luckily I sent my fall project, so now I can train without thinking: I should really be doing power-endurance training for Charlie Don’t Surf. It’s nice to have your mind at ease from the tension of being wrapped around a “project”.
In the Red I intend to climb as many 5.12’s as possible. I have gone on trips trying to project, and for me it is no longer worth it. Would I rather obsess about one climb, or try to onsight everything possible. To be honest, my personal goal is to try and climb 10 new 5.12’s. My last trip I sent 8, so I figure why not go for 10? I always try my hardest and give it my all, by no means am I going “take it easy”. If you know me, or know anyone who knows me, I don’t know how to take it easy, ask them. Also, i’ve seen projects on trips make a lot of tension in the group, so by just trying to onsight and do things quick allows for flexibility.
Nutrition, okay, next post, I promise, I’ll write about nutrition. Here’s a tip, its better to eat a meal, digest for an hour, then start pounding beers!

Written by rockclimbingnutrition

September 29th, 2012 at 11:58 pm

Posted in Uncategorized

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